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Paris Fashion Week SS27 is underway with 67 shows and 34 presentations. Early standouts include Anthony Vaccarello’s all-gold final Saint Laurent show, Glenn Martens’ Maison Margiela return, Matières Fécales’s first-ever runway at Place de la République, and Anrealage’s tech-driven 25th anniversary collection.
Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 is underway with 67 shows and 34 presentations on the calendar, and the season’s early highlights include Anthony Vaccarello’s final Saint Laurent collection after a decade as creative lead, according to a Hypebae review. The week has already produced a historic first: Matières Fécales staged the first-ever runway show at Place de la République. The event runs as the finale of the global fashion circuit following Milan Fashion Week.
The SS27 season marks several transitions. Drew Henry debuts at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven, while Sacai, Ester Manas and Christopher Esber return to the Paris schedule. Valentino is also back in Paris after showing in Rome for Fall/Winter 2026. Established houses are staging large showcases while emerging brands open showrooms and host re-sees across the city, per the report.
At Saint Laurent, Vaccarello closed his roughly ten-year tenure with a collection dominated by gold — a shade the house’s founder prized — applied throughout lamé, brocade, lace and latex brushed with gold leaf. The show, staged under the lights of the Eiffel Tower, drew attendees including Rosé, Zoë Kravitz and Hailey Bieber, with Charlotte Gainsbourg performing during the final walk.
Matières Fécales, designed by Steven Raj Bhaskaran and Hannah Rose, presented “Ninety Nine Percent” on 99 models of color, many of them the designers’ loved ones. Drawing on Bhaskaran’s childhood in Montreal low-income housing, the collection moved from pristine white tailoring — including a heeled flip-flop made with Christian Louboutin — to punk-edged military pieces, closing with models carrying realistic billionaire figures around the monument.
Why These Shows Set the Season’s Tone
Vaccarello’s exit ends one of the longest creative tenures among major Paris houses, making his final statement a reference point for whoever follows at Saint Laurent. The all-gold collection also serves as a deliberate callback to founder Yves Saint Laurent’s affinity for the shade, according to the report.
Glenn Martens’ Maison Margiela show signals a shift in his focus: now solely dedicated to Margiela after leaving Diesel, his SS27 womenswear applied the house’s deconstruction ethos to domestic life, from flattened silver teapot motifs to glossy ’70s-style retro florals. Anrealage’s 25th-anniversary “SKIN” collection, featuring LED digital skins and color-shifting electronic-paper scales — including six armor-like evening dresses covered in thousands of E Ink scales — underscores how technology continues to drive runway experimentation in Paris.
How Paris Closes the Fashion Month
: “Paris is the final stop on the monthlong fashion calendar, following New York, London and Milan — where Martens staged his final Diesel show one week before his Margiela presentation in Paris, per Hypebae. The SS27 edition’s 67-show, 34-presentation schedule mixes legacy luxury houses with emerging labels showing across the city.
Matières Fécales’ appearance follows last season’s collection critiquing the ultra-wealthy, continuing the design duo’s socially pointed approach. Anrealage, led by Kunihiko Morinaga, marked its 25th Paris show with the “SKIN” collection, building on its reputation for integrating technology into clothing.
“The Spring/Summer 2027 fashion circuit reaches its grand finale in the city of love, with Paris Fashion Week bringing 67 shows and 34 presentations to the calendar.”
— Hypebae report
What the Recap Leaves Out
The Hypebae report reflects editorial favorites rather than a complete survey of the week; the remaining shows on the 67-show calendar had not been covered at the time of publication. Outcomes of the two creative debuts — Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven — are not addressed in the source material. Saint Laurent has not, in this report, named a successor to Vaccarello, and commercial details such as collection availability and pricing were not disclosed.
Remaining Shows and Succession Questions
The remaining Paris Fashion Week SS27 shows and presentations continue through the end of the calendar, with additional recaps expected as the week progresses. Attention will also turn to who succeeds Vaccarello at Saint Laurent, an announcement the house has not yet made according to the report. The debut collections at Courrèges and Carven, plus returning brands including Valentino and Sacai, remain among the season’s upcoming milestones.
Key Questions
Why is Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent show significant?
It was his final collection for Saint Laurent after about a decade as creative lead. The all-gold SS27 show referenced founder Yves Saint Laurent’s love of the shade and closed with a live performance by Charlotte Gainsbourg.
What was historic about the Matières Fécales show?
It was the first-ever runway show held at Place de la République in Paris. The “Ninety Nine Percent” collection was presented on 99 models of color as a tribute to immigrants and marginalized communities.
What is Glenn Martens’ role at Maison Margiela?
Martens now focuses solely on Maison Margiela after departing Diesel, whose final show he staged in Milan one week before the Paris presentation. His SS27 collection applied Margiela’s deconstruction approach to domestic household themes.
How many shows are on the Paris Fashion Week SS27 schedule?
The calendar includes 67 shows and 34 presentations, including debuts by Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven.
What made Anrealage’s anniversary collection notable?
Marking the label’s 25th Paris show, the “SKIN” collection featured LED digital skins and electronic-paper scales that shift in color, including six evening dresses covered in thousands of E Ink scales.
Source: rss
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